Fava beans, falafel and flatbread, for about a euro, from a cart on a corner.
Ful medames is the national breakfast and has been for a very long time — dried fava beans, slow-cooked overnight, mashed with oil, lemon, cumin and whatever the cook favours. It is served in a bowl with bread and eaten with your hands.

Alongside it comes taameya, the Egyptian falafel, made from fava beans rather than chickpeas. It is greener inside, lighter, and cooked to order so it arrives hot. Add eggs, a plate of tomato and cucumber, some pickles and a glass of sweet tea and that is the meal.
The bread is aish baladi — wholemeal, puffed hollow in a very hot oven, and used as a spoon rather than a side. Aish means both "bread" and "life" in Egyptian Arabic, which tells you something.


Ful medames is the national breakfast and has been for a very long time — dried fava beans, slow-cooked overnight, mashed with oil, lemon, cumin and whatever the cook favours.
Hotel buffets serve none of this properly. Walk to a ful cart in the morning — every neighbourhood has one, they open before six, and a full breakfast costs less than a bottle of water in the resort.

